Paul D. Piche has put together a video with the Hammer City Roller Girls giving you a run through of flat track roller derby in 2 minutes including the different roles, times, scoring points and more. If you are new to the sport, this is one of the clearest explanations of it that I've seen!
Find your nearest league and contact details from the list below. Please note, this list may not be current. If you see any league or details that is listed incorrectly or missing altogether, please let us know so we can update it.
Roller Derby Leagues located in the Australian Capital Territory:
Canberra Roller Derby League (CRDL) was established in 2008 and now has 4 home teams and one interstate team.
Varsity Derby League (VDL), previously known as ANU Roller Derby has 3 teams, one designed to give everyone a go (the Dishonour Rollers) and two regular teams.
Roller Derby Leagues located in New South Wales:
Black diamond Roller Derby League is a new League in wollongong, N.S.W Established February 2011.
Blue Mountains Roller Derby League was officially launched on the 1st of July 2011 and are based in Katoomba with currently over 50 members.
Central Coast Roller Girls (CCRG) was created in October 2010.
We encourage participation of men and women from all backgrounds and skill levels.
Coffs Coast Derby Dolls Inc was established in May 2010. The Association was officially set up on June 23rd 2010
Hawkesbury/Hills Area Roller Derby is an association that strives to provide a healthy, safe and fun environment for women to learn and play Roller Derby.
Inner West Roller Derby League was established in Febuary 2012 and are looking for members to join our league. We are currently recruiting skaters, non skaters and volunteers in the Sydney area.
Macarthur Area Roller Derby was established in October 2009 and had our first public bout in early 2011
Nepean Derby Dolls is a new roller derby league established in 2011 located in Sydneys western suburbs with skaters from all over Sydney.
Newcastle Roller Derby League is a not-for-profit organisation. We play hard-hitting, fast-paced, strategic flat track roller derby in Newcastle, Australia and have been developing in leaps and bounds since 2008
North West Slops and Pains Roller Derby is a new roller derby league established January 2011.
Located in Byron Bay, the Bay Rollers were formed in April 2010 by Gina Rollerbridgida and Uzi Quatro.
Roller Derby Leagues located in the Northern Territory:
Roller Derby Leagues located in Queensland:
Roller Derby Leagues located in South Australia:
Roller Derby Leagues located in Tasmania:
Roller Derby Leagues located in Victoria:
Roller Derby Leagues located in Western Australia:
The hardness of roller skate wheels is defined by the durometer, measured using Type A, and thus represented by the "A" rating after a number. In essence, the higher the A rating, the harder the wheel will be. Softer wheels (75A – 85A) are generally used for outdoor skating as they will handle bumps, grooves and obstacles better whilst offering better grip on most surfaces. Comparatively harder wheels (85A – 100A) are more commonly used for indoor skating as they handle smoother surfaces better, allowing for higher speeds, at the cost though of less grip. Softer indoor wheels will offer better grip than hard indoor wheels, depending on how you skate you may find softer wheels better for learning and gradually moving to harder wheels as you progress.
For more information, check out the Wikipedia article which goes into all the different types of durometer ratings.
We're putting together this section to focus on providing you a range of help with your scooter in the form of both written, photo and video guides, some by us and some by others. Check out the scooter help articles so far below.
Ryan Williams from Madd Gear Pro takes you through removing your MGP scooter bars, clamp and compression system so you can change your forks, check out the video:
I get asked fairly often by customers how to pick the right size trucks for their deck. There are a few things to consider, but it is in essence pretty straight forward.
This is the most important thing to keep in mind when determining the right size trucks for your skateboard.
In general you will want your axle to be close to the same width as your deck. So on a 7.25" wide deck, you will want an axle around the 7" to 8" mark for your axle, or around a 5" hanger. Similarly on an 8" deck, you will want something around the 7.75" to 8.5" mark for your truck axle, somewhere around a 5.25" hanger.
Remember though, the hanger width is not the same width as the axle, it is actually shorter.
The hanger is the thick section that the axle runs through as you can see in the photo. The axle then extends out from the hanger.
Trucks come in 3 main height profiles - low, standard and high. You should keep this in mind when picking a set of trucks because it will influence the size of the wheels you can use on your deck, and subsequently the type of skating your board will be best suited to.
Low profile skateboard trucks are favoured for tricks as they offer greater stability by lowering your centre of gravity on the board. This gives you a more stable platform to do kicks and flips from. You do need to use smaller wheels though. In general, you want to make sure they are no bigger than 54-55mm.
Standard profile skateboard trucks are good for all round usage, tricks to cruising. If you aren't really sure what you want to do with your skateboard, these are a good choice.
High profile skateboard trucks offer a better platform for cruising and carving on because they can handle bigger wheels, which can get you more speed. Typically you will be looking at anything above 55mm on higher profile trucks.
The other thing to consider is that if you have your heart set on some low profile trucks but want to use bigger wheels, you can use risers to increase the distance between your deck and axle.
Wheel bite is when the wheels hit the bottom of the board when you turn. This can happen if your kingpin is too loose or if your wheels are too big for your trucks/your trucks are too low for your wheels.
Trucks generally come with the kingpin tightened to a reasonable level for use with the appropriate size wheels for their profile, so if you stick to the suggested wheel sizes above, your kingpin should be set fine, though you may want to make some adjustments to your taste.
As long as you don't get wheels to big for the profile of your trucks, you shouldn't have a problem with wheel bite. If you think you might, try standing on your board and tilting from side to side as far as you can, like you would in a turn. If the wheels touch your deck than you will need to get smaller wheels, higher profile trucks, or some risers (this is probably your cheapest option).
Need to swap the hanger over on your Penny skateboard? Here's how (with lots of pictures)!
You should try and avoid getting your board wet at all, watch out for puddles and don't skate in the rain, but If your skateboard gets wet there are a number of things that it can affect, so you need to dry it out ASAP.
When your deck gets wet, it can cause the lamination to peel or bubble, this is what is called delamination. This isn't covered by your warranty as it is not a deck fault, liquids cause this to happen (if it happens without being caused be a liquid than it could well be a warranty issue, it's usually obvious if it has been wet or not).
Water can cause the wood in your deck to soften which can in turn lead to warping. Even once it's dried out, this will affect the performance of your deck, you will generally find it won't have the same pop that you are used to, and will often bend or break easier.
Rust affects just about everything besides your deck and wheels. Water can cause your deck bolts to rust, it can also cause your trucks (particularly the axles) to rust, and most notably it can cause your bearings to rust and bring in extra grime.
Rusty bolts and trucks/axles can ultimately lead to breakage, but that can be a slow process and isn't going to be a big worry, especially considering they will generally dry out quick enough that it shouldn't be much of a problem. The more serious issue is the bearings. When water gets inside the shields it can take a long time to dry, which does cause rust. If they get wet, open them up and dry them out ASAP to try and avoid potential rust. If they start to get noisey and feel rough when they spin or don't spin freely, it's possible that they are starting to rust (or are really dirty). You don't want this. If they are just dirty, you can clean them, but if they are starting to rust it's permanent damage. If the rust isn't bad you can try cleaning them with a rust eater, but your bearings will not be as round or smooth as they were, which means they will not perform as well.
The best solution is to avoid water altogether, it will keep you going for longer, and water damage isn't covered by warranties, so keeping your skateboard dry will save you money too.
If your skateboard is constantly turning or leaning towards the left or the right, there are a couple of possible causes. The most likely ones are either the bushings in your trucks, or your hardware.
Bushings are the hard, rounded plastic pieces in your trucks that squash down in the direction you are turning. They give varying levels of flexibility (usually measured in hardness such as - hard, medium or soft) to the turning capability of your trucks.
Your bushings could be a bit squashed on one side, this can happen when you are turning in one direction a lot. If this is the case, try and lean on the other side a bit, even if you aren't actually skating. This should even them up a bit. This tends to happen when a set of bushings are still fairly new. It can last for a couple of days up to a couple of weeks, it just depends how much you are skating.
Another possibility is that your bushings could be damaged. If there are cracks in them, it's a good sign that this could be the cause. You will probably need to replace them if this is the case.
The hardware I am referring to here is the set of bolts that hold your trucks to the board and your kingpin which runs through your truck and bushing.
It may simply be a case of your kingpin being a bit too loose or not quite set straight, in this case you will either need to tighten it up, or straighten it up.
It is also possible that some of the bolts may not be done up tight enough and the truck is twisting slightly. You should just need to tighten up the loose bolts. Most of the time it will sit straight simply by threading the bolts through the holes in the board and the truck, but sometimes there is a bit of wiggle room that can put them slightly out if the bolts are a little loose.